Computer dust washing and repair process

 

Computer dust washing and repair process

 

 

(1) Incoming status 

 Below, the computer is in stock. It doesn't look that messy. In this case, cleaning isn't the goal and there are often other problems. Usually, there aren't many people who come to the computer store just to clean up. If there's one person a month, a lot of them come, and they usually come when there's a problem with the computer rather than when the purpose is to clean the dust.

 

 Before cleaning the dust, I first asked about a computer problem. It is said that there are symptoms of disconnection when transferring data by connecting the smartphone to the front USB port and lag during video editing. As long as I am asked to clean the dust, they often just clean it. It would be good if you could tell me the symptoms that don't usually work. There are many cases where dust cleaning alone cannot solve the problem without solving the cause. When I search for symptoms in computer repair through Internet communities or intellectual bulletin boards, I often point out the dust problem if I don't know what the cause is. Dust cleaning rarely solves it. 

 

 If a lot of dust accumulates and covers the CPU cooler heat sink, CPU heat generation problems can occur. Other than that, there are more cases where it does not cause significant problems even if you use it with a lot of dust. If you come to a computer repair shop after using it for one to three years after purchasing a computer, the dust that flies into the air when cleaning the dust is the most noticeable effect, so it's good to blame it on the dust, so the computer that didn't work at home came to the computer repair shop, but if it suddenly works well, you can blame it on the dust.

 

If you tell them that you can't go home and you don't know the cause of the success at the computer store, they may not be able to tell them the truth because their expertise will be reduced. As a matter of fact, = the symptoms of the problem have disappeared = If they say it's normal, it's hard to even get an inspection fee. You also think it's not a big deal, so I don't even want to pay for it. Try it a little more, and if you want to tell them to come back or get a simple inspection fee, they have to dust off it. People who try to get an inspection fee by turning the main body back and forth are just acting cute, and some people who are serious say something is wrong without opening the lid and checking it properly.

A person who has repaired a lot is not sure immediately without verification even if it is a symptom that is visible. This is because there are various patterns of failure in computer repair. The guesses may be correct or incorrect, so cross-validation must check the broken part to accurately diagnose.

 Of course, dust can cause connection problems, but there are usually more causes of connection problems due to moisture than dust. Moist days rather than sunny days = More connection problems are reported on rainy days. On hot and humid days (mainly rainy season, the day after rain), connection problems occur the most. Dust is piled up on the computer and most of the time, if the computer doesn't work, it is stored and cleaned. The concept of management that requires re-applying dust and thermal on the computer = Users who are interested in computers often self-cleans or re-apply thermal. 

It's relatively clean. It's not that dusty.

 

 

 

 First, I put the computer on top of a chair to clean the dust outside. The picture below shows that the hard disk is not fixed, so it fell off. If you use it without fixing the hard disk, it may fall out when moving the computer like this. It is recommended to fix it and use it. It is dangerous. If the hard disk falls on the floor, it can break down.

The Hadidsk is not fixed to the hard bay, so it's flowing down. The cable is connected, so it won't come off completely, but we still recommend that it be fixed.

 

 

 

 I removed the hard disk from the hard disk bay. I can see why you couldn't fix it. I need a screw dedicated to the hard disk, but I think you couldn't fix it because it's a screw that is difficult to get easily. There was no hard disk when I assembled it, and it seems that the user added the hard disk. (Looking at the state of the wiring inside the computer, it doesn't look like it was assembled by the company, but it looks like it was an acquaintance or self-assembled.)

Unlocked hard disks were removed from the case.

 

 

 I fastened the screw I had for spare, put the hard disk in the hard disk bay, and tightened it with a hand screw into the fixing screw hole on the right side to keep the hard disk from separating. 

 

 

It was tightened with a dedicated screw to fit in the hard disk bay rail. The other side was tightened with a hand screw to secure the hard disk.

 

 

 

(2) Seagate hard disks set to storage pool functionality

 

(Problems with additional hard disks) 

 I checked if the Seagate hard disk is abnormal with the hard disk inspection program. There is also Seagate and it is marked as MsftStoreage Space (998 gB). Among the Windows functions, there is a storage pool function. As far as I know, there is a function to use and back up two hard disks in a bundle on Windows. It is not a function that is commonly used. I know this function and I have never set it up before, so it is a function that I don't use well. If an error occurs while using a bundled hard disk, it is difficult to recover, and I don't know what will happen when connected to another PC, so I didn't use it. I think it is more stable to add a large hard disk. I have never used the storage pool function of Raid or Windows, so I don't know what is convenient.

 

 The picture on the left is checking the storage pool on Windows 11 (my test computer), and the picture on the right is checking the storage pool on your computer (Windows 10). It seems that I created the storage pool by myself, not tied to other hard disks. Is there a way to set up and use a factory-initialized hard disk like this? Sometimes there are customers who set it up like this.

 

 

If you're not familiar with storage pool functionality, I'd recommend creating and using space on a new hard disk through a disk manager.

 

 

 

Storage pool (checked on Windows 11 on the left and on Windows 10 on the right)

 

 

 

 

(3) Problem with motherboard (out of heat sink)

 

 I checked it with the customer when it came in. One fixing pin on the heat sink (South chip managed by SATA devices) on the main board is missing. So, the heat sink was floating on the chip. The failure to properly control the heat generation of the South chipset may have caused the error. At first, it works fine when the heat is low, but if you keep working, it can be very slow or error-prone.

 

 

The problem I found when it was first stocked was that the heat sink was slanted.

 

 

 

 

 To remove the old heat sink, the main board was removed and flipped to remove one fixing pin. To obtain a fixing pin of a similar size, it was replaced with a fixing pin attached to another heat sink. 

 

 

One of the two fixing pins on both sides fixing the heat sink is missing. I removed and replaced the same size pin from the other heat sink.

 

 

 

One fixing pin (white) was removed from the black heat sink, and the heat sink on the main board was fixed.

 

 

The white fixing pin of the black heat sink was removed and attached to the yellow heat sink.

 

 

 

 As shown below, the replaced pin is white and the original pin is changed to black. I only replaced one like this to show signs of repair. It's hard to know if the heat sink hasn't fallen off, but if the repairman sees it, it can be helpful for repair by checking the traces of the heat sink falling and sticking. 

One of the South chipset heat sinks is fixed in white and one in black.

 

 

 

 

Additional issues with motherboard (front USB 3.0 port pin corruption) - Why did I connect my smartphone to the front USB port and get disconnected when transferring data?

 

 As shown below, one pin in the USB 3.0 header is broken. (Bottom right pin 2 is broken) I checked if there is a pin in the USB 3.0 cable, but I can't see the pin. I see a pin pressed next to the second column. I guess it broke in the pressed state and ran out together when unplugging the cable. 

 

 

One pin in the USB 3.0 header on the motherboard is broken.

 

 

 

I'm checking if the USB 3.0 front cable port has a pin stuck. I can only see traces of pin pressed down while lying down.

 

 

 

 I checked to see if any of the soldering on the motherboard has fallen off. The soldering remains the same. It does not come off easily because of the strong attachment. (It does create cracks.) Some people get the same pin to remove the old broken pin and make repairs to the pin, but I don't have that skill, so it's hard to repair the board part.

I thought the soldering might have fallen off, so I checked under the substrate as well.

 

 

 

 Sometimes, I checked the operation status of the front USB 3.0 port because it is available even though there is a broken pin. I plugged my external SSD into the USB 3.0 port and it doesn't respond much. But if you plug the cable into the USB 3.0 port to a depth of 2/3 without pushing it all the way through, it recognizes it as USB 2.0 mode. USB 3.0 does not work, but runs on USB 2.0. (Additionally, wireless mouse receiver (USB2.0) is recognized as normal.)

 

 

If you connect the external hard 3.0 cable a little bit, the external hard is recognized, and the wireless mouse receiver is recognized normally.

 

 

 

 

 I've tried copying movie files from a gigabyte network (a network that can transfer ~100MB/s) to a USB external hard drive. It's coming out at about 30MB/s, which is the USB 2.0 transfer rate. (Note) If an external SSD is connected in USB 3.0 mode, it's about 100MB/s.

I copied the movie files to an external hard drive over a Giga network.

 

 

 The broken pin is pin 12. The pin map says USB3 ICC Port2 D- (USB2 Signal D-). I'm not sure what it is, but I think D is a Data abbreviation and is a data transfer pin. USB 3.0 mode does not work and USB 2.0 mode is recognized.

 

 

USB 3.0 Pinmap

 

 

=> Repairing the front USB 3.0 port header is difficult. It is recommended to purchase an extension of USB 3.0 and connect it to the extension from the USB 3.0 port behind the main board. It is cheaper than repairing the board and convenient to make a USB port next to the keyboard next to the desk. I also use a USB port made of USB extension in front of the keyboard rather than the USB port in the case. If you have to use the front USB 3.0 port, you can buy a PCI card type USB 3.0 card, mount it on the main board, and make an additional USB 3.0 header to use it. Since USB C type is also required these days, I think it is also a way to find an expansion card that supports USB C and USB 3.0 at the same time. (USB extension, USB PCI expansion card, used board replacement, CPU+M/B upgrade, etc.)

 

(4) cleaning the exterior

 

 

 

One of the two front fans was pressed under the SSD, so I removed it so that it was not pressed with one line.

 

 

 We are cleaning the dust. We can't always wipe it with wet wipes like this, but we sometimes wipe it off if necessary or during the separation process. 

 

 

And I removed the front bezel because there was a noise from the bottom fan. While I was removing it, I also wiped the wings with wet wipes. The front panel sometimes breaks the leg while removing it, so it's usually hard to open it unless there's an additional problem like fan noise.

 

 

 

 Even though I dusted off the CPU cooler, it won't dust off.

 

It's adsorbed on the wings of the cooler, so I'll dust off the brush in front of the vacuum cleaner 

 

 

 

 

 

 There was still sticky dust that could not be cleaned, so I removed the cooler and wiped it with a wet tissue. Ordinary light dust is easily cut off by the compressor's air pressure alone, because the dust is spotty. (Smoking, oil, etc.) Because such dust cannot be cut off by the compressor's air pressure alone, there are cases where the dust sticks to the wings even if it is cleaned with an air gun. Since it doesn't look clean after being cleaned, it has to be cleaned manually after disassembly, but this isn't always easy to do. When posting on a blog like this, there are cases where you wipe it a little cleaner as "to show off," but when you look at an Internet post, there are cases where you are asked to remove and clean all the parts. Removing and wiping everything like this takes a lot of time. It can be a time-consuming task than changing the case. Unless you're cleaning it at home as a hobby, there are not many people who clean it by opening it one at a time and wiping the parts with wet wipes, and it might be better to change the case in terms of cost (time).

 

 

The CPU cooler was removed, and the dust under the CPU fan wing was wiped with a wet tissue.

 

 

 

There were many problems with the main body that I left to clean, so I wrote a long article. You can find the keyword by finding (Ctrl + F) for what you are looking for. On mobile, you can also find the keyword with the text search function. Thank you for reading the long article. 

 

 

[ Source ]

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